01/13/06

ADVANCED MODELING - PAGE 4

How to convert your Tamiya 1/16th Scale Tiger I from an early to late model (steel wheel version).

By Robert M. Hoopes   7-30-2002

Disclaimer:  Read the article completely before attempting the modification.  If you do not understand the modification, do not attempt it.  Find someone who understands the modification to help you.  FRAG accepts no liability for any damage caused as a result of this process.

NOTE

A reader commented that instead of purchasing the parts individually from Tamiya, it was cheaper to purchase the non-R/C King Tiger kit.

OVERVIEW OF MODIFICATION:

Tamiya’s Tiger I is an “Early Production” Tiger that uses the rubber road wheels.  Converting this Tiger to a “Mid” or “Late Production” is fairly easy, providing you are already proficient in “kitbashing” models.  This Tiger I modification article covers only the Steel Wheel conversion typically found on Late Production Tigers.  For the hull and turret modifications, use your reference materials to assist you in those modifications.

NOTE

This modification can be accomplished if the kit is all ready built or if it is still unassembled and in the box.  Naturally, the built version requires a little extra effort.  This article is written based on the experience of modifying a completed Tiger I kit.

MATERIALS LIST

The materials you will need to purchase from Tamiya are:

Tamiya part number 9405055 (order 1) Road Wheel Bag (metal wheels)

Tamiya part number 0005225 (order 6) “A” Parts Tree (plastic wheel parts)

Tamiya part number 0443172 (order 1) Turret (You cut off the commander’s cupola, exhaust fan, and close defense weapon to mount on Tiger 1 turret.  See Fig. 1 for placement.)

These parts are available from Tamiya America (1-800-826-4922).  If you do not want to scratch build the commander’s hatch, then also order:

Tamiya part number 9005025 (order 1) “B” Parts Tree (This will also give you some other parts you can use like the towing “C” clamps.)

NOTE

The best reference book you can and should use for this conversion is from Shciffer Publishing:  Germany’s Tiger Tanks, D.W. to Tiger 1: Design, Productions and Modifications, written by Thomas L. Jentz and Hilary L. Doyle.  Look for this book at you local Hobby Town USA, or on the internet.  The cost of this book is $49.95 and is worth every penny.

Steel Wheel Conversion Steps

 STEP 1

Cut the wheels off the axle shaft leaving the inner most wheel on (refer to Fig. 2 below).

Note:  If you have an unassembled kit, then on the metal shaft MU1, there is a stop ring.  Cut off the short end of the shaft above the ring, leaving the ring on the shaft.  If your kit is already assembled, and you can remove the metal shaft without damaging the plastic, then you can do this too.

STEP 2

On the wheels left on the axle shaft there is the seat for the rubber wheels to be mounted.  On the outer wheels, remove the outside seat, and on the middle wheels remove the inside seat.  Refer to Fig. 3a, 3b, and 3c.

STEP 3

Now glue the metal wheels onto the plastic wheels by sliding them over and down the axle shaft to the plastic wheel.  Refer to Fig. 4a and 4b.  Make sure that the plastic wheel is centered on the metal wheel.  *Note- I used Maxi-Cure extra thick glue from Hobby Town USA.  It is the best I have found for gluing plastic to metal.

STEP 4

From “A” Parts Tree, take A6, the outer face of the steel wheel, and glue them to the metal wheels that are left (16).  Make sure they are centered.  Refer to Fig. 5a and 5b.

STEP 5

Now you’ll need to drill a 3/8 in. hole through part A6.  Do this by hand.  Do not use power tools!  Be sure to stay on the center and don’t tear the plastic.  The axle shaft is 7/16 in. with a slight taper so you will have to widen the hole to make sure the axle shaft fits snuggly in the hole.  The best way to do this is with a reamer tool.  Micro-Mark has a good T-handle reamer for about $7.95.  You can order this from their website www.micromark.com or by phone 1-800-225-1066.  The part number is 15128.

STEP 6

On the flat side of your metal wheel, the plastic from part A6 is sticking through.  Cut this off even with the metal wheel.

STEP 7

You will need to make a spacer to go between the metal wheels on the middle wheel sets.  Refer to Fig. 2 and 6.  You can get a sheet of plastic .040 thick from your local hobby shop to do this.  You can make this spacer any way you want.

STEP 8

To assemble the middle wheels first slide your .040 thick spacers down the axle shaft and glue it to the metal wheel.  After that slide the outside metal wheel down the shaft (*Test fit outside wheels to shaft first!) and glue it to the spacer and shaft.  Hold the wheels tightly together for about ten to twenty seconds so the glue will hold.

STEP 9

To assemble the outer wheels, the first thing you do is make a jig to set the spacing for the outer wheels.  Use twenty of the Tiger 1 track links together in a ring.  Now a metal wheel will fit snuggly against the track guides inside this ring.  Now take the inside metal wheel and place it inside the track link ring so that it is against a set of track guides.  Then place the outside wheel into the opposite side of the ring over the shaft and snug against the other track guides.  Test the fit to make sure everything is correct before applying glue.

STEP 10

Now for the end caps, you can use A2 and A4 parts cut to fit, but these are not correct for the Tiger 1, (I had to use them because I did not cut down shaft MU1) or you can look at you reference material and scratch build the proper end caps for the axle shafts.

STEP 11

Mount parts ML1, MU1 and MU2 according to the Tiger 1 instructions Step 12.  Refer to 7a, 7b, and 7c.

 The completed upgrade of the Tiger 1, by Robert M. Hoopes.